Frequently Asked Questions

The costs of buying a new boiler and getting it installed vary enormously, as you’d expect.

Here are a few things that influence the price you pay for a new boiler

• Type of boiler – if you’ve chosen a heat-only or storage boiler, for example, you may need to stump up for a hot water cylinder
• Brand and model – as with anything, you get what you pay for so it can be a false economy to go for the cheapest out there. A good quality boiler will last you longer and save you cash and break-down headaches in the long-run
• Size – if you’re buying a larger boiler for a bigger house, you can expect, of course, to pay more

Our experienced team of heating engineers will only install tried, tested and trusted models and they’ll give you straight, honest advice on the merits of each brand. If you’re undecided on the make and model, just give us a call and we’ll be happy to help.

Here are a few things that influence the amount you pay for getting your boiler installed

• New pipework needed and / or a change of location – when you moved in, did you inherit a boiler in an awkward location? Now’s your chance to move it to a more convenient place, but this can be expensive
• Cleaning your heating system – clear pipes and radiators are essential when you get a new boiler installed and there are different ways to do this. A power flush, for example, can cost in the region of £400
• Fitting thermostatic radiator valves – these are relatively inexpensive and can be an effective way to keep your system balanced and room temperatures comfortable
• Bigger gas supply line – for larger boilers, you may need a larger supply line between your boiler and gas meter to make sure the pressure drop isn’t too large
• Replacing one type of boiler with another – swapping a heat-only system for a combi boiler, for example, will require more labour and re-piping

If you’re worried about the additional costs that come with a boiler fitting, give us a call. We’ll help you make the right decisions and hopefully give you some peace of mind.

The average life expectancy for a boiler is between 10 and 15 years. Make sure that your boiler is maintained properly with a regular, annual service. This will keep your system functioning for as long as possible. 

And we’ve already mentioned it, but you get what you pay for with boilers. If you can afford the up-front cost, a higher quality system makes sense and is likely to save you money in the long-run.

Every year, there are around 60 deaths from carbon monoxide poisoning in homes in England and Wales. Don’t risk it.

If you have a gas-fired boiler, then fit a smoke alarm and a carbon monoxide detector for your and your family’s safety and, if you’re a landlord, anyone living in your property.

Faulty gas appliances can produce carbon monoxide, which no colour, smell or taste. The gas is difficult to detect but its effects can be fatal.

There are three main types of boilers you can install into your home: combi boilers, heat only (regular boilers) and system boilers. 

The one most suitable for you and your home largely depends on your current hot water demands, but it’s also important to consider other factors, such as the age of your current heating systems and the pressure of your mains water supply. 

We have a whole page dedicated to the different boilers we install, so click here for more info. Or give us a call if you’d prefer to talk it through. We like a good, old-fashioned phone call too.

Yes, all our heating engineers are qualified and Gas Safe registered.

Most modern boilers should have an energy efficiency sticker on the boiler or in the pack that you will have been given. The rating will be clearly displayed here.

If you have an older system, check under the boiler where the pipes come out, and under the flap at the front where the dials are. Here you should find a small sticker or plate with the exact model.

Once you have the model, the best place to check the rating is to go to the Product Characteristics Database (PCDB). This is a comprehensive website with nearly every boiler ever made and it’s usually easy to find your boiler efficiency figure here. Look for the seasonal efficiency figure, which gives you the best idea of how your system performs throughout the year.

Our Gas Safe-registered engineers are really thorough. Their checks will include

• The flue, internally and externally
• Boiler and pilot light or auto ignition
• Operating pressure and/or heat input
• Safety devices
• Case seals
• Internal components, including burner, heat exchanger, main injector and spark probe

We’ll fire your boiler safely to identify any working faults, clean parts if necessary and produce a service report showing you everything our engineer has done.

An annual boiler service with one of our Gas Safe-registered engineers makes sense if you want your boiler to continue running safely and smoothly.

Only three in 10 boilers serviced every year need a repair in their first six years, according to a Which? survey in 2021. This doubles to around six in 10 boilers when only serviced every two to five years.

So yes, spending a little on caring for your boiler now will save you a big headache further down the line.

At Sensible Heating Solutions, we provide both

• a one-off service
• a boiler cover package with annual service

There are pros and cons with either, of course. If you rely on the one-off service, you could save cash with a new and reliable boiler. But it’s a false economy if your boiler is old and on its last legs.

If you’re thinking long term, our boiler cover package gives you peace of mind and could extend the life of your machine.

This old chestnut! If you have an older gas boiler, you will no doubt have experienced the pilot light frequently blowing out. You can reset it easily, however. Follow these simple steps and be careful

• Turn the thermostat on
• Find the pilot valve, which is labelled, and turn it to off
• Leave the boiler open for about five minutes to allow potentially dangerous flammable gases to dissipate
• Find the pilot light, which should be near to the pilot valve
• Turn the valve back to ‘pilot’ and make sure gas is running out of it
• Put a long match or lighter at the tip of the pilot
• Once lit for around a minute, turn the valve to the ‘on’ position
• Turn the thermostat back to where you would like it

If the pilot light keeps blowing out, you may need to clean out the pilot tube. Or it could be as simple as a breeze or draught.

If you’re not sure and you’re having persistent problems with your pilot light, one of our Gas Safe-certified engineers will help you suss it out and put it right.

Cold radiators are a common problem and there are a variety of causes, such as

• Thermostat is set too low
• Timer isn’t working
• Radiator valve is closed
• Air pockets in the system
• Blockages within the system
• Circulation fault

If you’re having issues with all of your radiators, it’s likely to be down to your central heating or boiler. If it’s just one or two radiators playing up, then there are various solutions

• One radiator stays cold – make sure the valves on each side of the radiator are open. If they are but the radiator is still cold, they could be blocked. A cleaning of the system by one of our Gas Safe-registered engineers should put this right
• Cold radiators upstairs – there is a chance that the feed from your expansion tank has run dry. In this situation, one of our engineers would clear any obstructions to the ball valve in your cistern and then refill the tank to ensure there’s enough water to float the ballcock
• Cold radiators downstairs – this could be a problem with the pump that pushes water around your heating system. A hot or noisy pump might be close to breaking down. If this is the issue, one our Gas Safe-registered engineers can either fix or replace the pump for you

Air trapped in your radiator means you all need to bleed it. You will know if this is the case if your radiator is cold at the top, the entire radiator is cold or it is making a rattling sound.

Here are some simple steps to bleeding your radiator

1. Turn on your heating and wait for all of your radiators to heat up

2. Check each radiator to see if there is an evenly spread temperature across its surface (just take care when touching). A cold or noisy radiator probably needs bleeding

3. Turn off your heating and wait for the radiators to cool down

4. Place an old towel or other absorbent material (not your partner’s favourite onesie) below the radiator bleed valve to catch any water

5. Open the valve, usually at the bottom of your radiator, and release the air. You will need to close the inlet and outlet at each end, then remove the screw from the centre of the valve. Insert the radiator key into the bleed valve and slowly turn it anti-clockwise. You should hear a hissing sound as the air escapes

6. When the hissing stops and you see water begin to leak out, turn the key clockwise to close the valve

7. Check the boiler pressure for each radiator that needs bleeding. If the boiler pressure is too low, you’ll need to repressurise the system. If the pressure is normal, you can switch your heating on and check that your radiators are now heating up

Never bleed a radiator when the heating is turned on because it may be too hot to touch and hot water could spray out. Also, if you bleed a radiator when the pump is running you will only draw more air into the system from elsewhere.

You can usually locate a water pressure gauge at the front of your boiler. Older boilers often have a hydraulic pressure gauge, which has red sections on the dial to show low and high pressure. For more modern systems, you’ll see a digital gauge that flashes if there’s a low or high pressure warning.

A low reading on a pressure gauge might mean you have lost water from the system. A high reading could be telling you that you need to bleed a radiator. Our recommendation is call us if you’re experiencing high pressure with your boiler. This can be potentially dangerous and needs a Gas Safe-registered engineer to rectify it.

You may have a leak somewhere in your boiler system. It may only be small but over time it could lead to a gradual drop in pressure. Look for signs of damp patches, around pipes, radiators and the boiler itself. You should never look for leaks inside your boiler, though. Only a Gas Safe engineer should open your system.

If you do find a leak, or need to top up the water pressure regularly, give one of our engineers a call and they’ll give you a visit to diagnose the problem.

Sometimes, it pays to replace a boiler rather than fork out for regular repairs. Signs you need a replacement include

• Radiators are talking longer to heat up
• The boiler is giving off a bad smell
• Your boiler is making strange noises
• Your system regularly leaks
• You gas bills are going up

Boilers and central heating systems are complicated things and a simple repair by a Gas Safe-certified engineer might cure any of the problems mentioned here. But boilers suffer wear and tear like any machinery and eventually will need replacing.

Book a call-out with one of our experienced, qualified engineers to get an honest, expert opinion on your best course of action. We’ll give you as many options as possible – and our best recommendation.